My heart is at home in: Tokyo. Part three

My heart is at home in: Tokyo. Part two.

Beginnings and endings were a big part of my life in those few weeks. The fact that the cherry blossom bloomed on the day I arrived and was falling off the trees when I left certainly feels significant on reflection.

It was a time of change when I went to Japan. The day before I travelled was my last day as a secondary school languages teacher and full sad of goodbyes. Two days after arriving home I began my new role as a non-teaching assistant head in alternative provision for reception to secondary school aged pupils not in mainstream education.

A week later my 15 year relationship was over. That was my 42, childless, single and disabled moment. Life was going to be very different. Luckily my new colleagues were wonderful and I shared an office with someone who had lived in Japan. We could talk about our love of Totoro and laugh and cry in equal measure. I am so grateful for her warm welcome and friendship.

After my first breakfast at the hotel (ashamedly the European continental breakfast rather than the traditional Japanese pickles and savoury options) my tour guide for the day was waiting for me. Hara-san was a smartly dressed elderly gentleman who took his job seriously and had planned the perfect day of Hanami (cherry blossom viewing) for a vegetarian in a wheelchair.

He was as thrilled as I was that it was the first day of Hanami and we set off for Shinjuku Gyoen, a stunning park full of cherry trees, Japanese gardens, traditional buildings and bridges all against the backdrop of shining, modern skyscrapers. It was as if someone had looked into my imagination and brought it to life only a million times better.

Hanami is a very social event. Family and friends get together to immerse themselves in the blossoms, taking photos not from a distance but amongst the hanging branches with the flowers against their faces.

It is taking pleasure in the variety of colour of blossoms from white through to deep pink and the contrast between the flower and the almost black branches of the cherry tree. The beauty of the trees and the surroundings was breathtaking.

The day continued with more Hanami spots, sightseeing and parks around Tokyo. Hara-san was such a gentle soul who obviously loved his city and shared that love with me. I absorbed every bit of it.

Hanami time is also party time. Once I had said goodbye to Hara-san and the sun had gone down I made my way to Ueno park. Leaving the subway station I crossed the road, turned the corner into the park and burst into tears.

Ahead of me was a long pathway of lit up cherry trees in full blossom with crowds of people promenading up and down. Groups of friends sat on tarpaulins under the trees drinking large amounts of beer and sake and the party was on! The atmosphere was amazing and a westerner in a wheelchair attracted plenty of friendly people wanting to find out if I was having fun, where I was from and what I thought of Tokyo.

Move away from the main party area and down to the lake and there are lanterns, food stalls, shrines and almost more beauty and wonder that it is possible to take in. It was a truly magical evening. Tokyo showing its respect for ancient religion and tradition and enjoying the buzz and energy of modern life.

The rest of the trip was highlight after highlight. The view from the Government Tower Observatory was breathtaking. The megacity looked as if someone had dropped a huge bag of grey and white Lego as far as the eye could see. Mount Fuji in its enormous splendour was visible faintly in the distance.

I visited Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples, some very quiet and some packed with tourists. Just a turn off a busy city street of skyscrapers and you were in the incense imbued atmosphere of spiritual, traditional architecture with a sense of history, peace and calm amongst the ultra modern city.

Tokyo is one of the safest cities in the world. It is packed but orderly and certainly not full of police cars and sirens. People were so polite and friendly. Whilst travelling on the subway I would be asked whether I was having a good time, being treated well and whether people were speaking English with me.

Akihabara was a world of Maid Cafés, shops selling anime figurines, electronics, computer games and lots of single males. At one point in the early evening X went to a shop that sold retro computer games. It was up flights of stairs so I sat in my wheelchair on the side street and watched the world go by.

As time went on young women dressed up in anime costumes began handing out flyers for a Maid Café. Short frilly skirts, high heels and platform shoes, stockings, lace and gingham. Due to my position and inability to move my wheelchair alone I ended up as part of this parade, although thankfully ignored. It was wonderful people watching.

I travelled to Kyoto which was traditional and beautiful. The Golden Pavilion was stunning in its opulent exterior. Peaceful Zen gardens with stones placed to have meaning that was beyond my understanding.

I had another tour guide for the day – Okada-san. Short and jolly with a cheeky, friendly smile and full of information. He took me all over the city using taxis and buses getting me in the wheelchair to places that weren’t easy to reach. Kyoto was less accessible than Tokyo and I don’t think I saw all that there was to see but the cherry blossom was everywhere.

I visited Nijo jo Castle with its ‘nightingale’ floor; the floorboards designed to squeak to alert the guards to intruders. There were no statues or portraits of lords and emperors, just the most exquisite designs hand-painted onto walls and screens. The designs were inspired by nature – koi carp, cranes, irises, lotus flowers and cherry blossom. I was in heaven.

The manga museum was fabulous. Row upon row of manga comic of every style from children’s to pornographic. It was full of chairs and beanbags with people of all ages sitting around reading and enjoying their beloved literature.

I watched the Miyako Odori, an annual spring show performed by the maiko and geisha of the Gion district. Before the show I was served mochi and matcha tea. The mochi was served on beautiful little hand-painted plates which were then wrapped up for you to take away and keep and I still love eating off them now.

I visited Nara with its giant golden Buddha and the bamboo groves of Arashiyama. It was time to leave Kyoto and head into the mountains for the old town of Takayama. I went from 20°c to -1°c and snow by train that travels the most picturesque route of forests and fast flowing rivers.

Takayama was charming with its old world narrow streets and wooden buildings. It was also souvenir shopping heaven. I left Japan with many items that I shall treasure for life.

It was wonderful seeing more of Japan but I missed the buzz and thrill of Tokyo. Despite nearly missing the Shinkansen I travelled back with a few more days of holiday to enjoy.

I felt so at home when I got back. I loved the different little tunes that play at every subway stop. I loved the toilets with heated seats and various wash settings, some of which in the more upmarket department stores had volume settings for the music to play in your cubicle. I loved the lace interiors of the taxis and how respectful and simple the nod of your head is.

Sadly the more traditional restaurants were inaccessible and had floor seating which I couldn’t manage so I ate most meals on the top floor of department stores. There was a wide range of cuisines – French and Italian being as popular as Indian and Chinese are here.

There were plenty of Japanese restaurants as well though. Only once did the store close before the restaurant and along with it the lifts. I’m pretty sure it’s the first time the staff had to carry someone in a wheelchair down the flights of stairs to street level!

The cherry blossom was now falling and carpeted the ground. This cycle of nature and life is as significant as the blossoming.

The second to last evening I went to the Lost in Translation bar for a very expensive drink with the most amazing view that transformed as the sun went down and the city lit up.

I wound my way around the narrow maze of the Golden Gai, home of tiny one room bars with two or three stools frequented by the Yakuza and setting of Midnight Diner. The trip of a lifetime was nearly over. One last day spent quietly at Ueno Park and the Tokyo Museum before heading back to the hotel for that fateful final smiling selfie.

I found a part of myself in Tokyo. I felt at home amongst the Japanese people, the city, the culture and the modernity. I left my heart in Tokyo but part of it was spoiled and broken. On return my heart yearned for the city I had fallen in love with. I had unfinished business…

https://ninaisinhere.home.blog/2022/04/23/my-heart-is-at-home-in-tokyo-part-four/